A Guide To Buying and Fixing up a Starter Home
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It takes more than money to buy your first home in the West. It takes determination, organization, and a lot of legwork--and that's just the beginning. Figuring out how to remodel or redecorate to fit the way you want to live comes next.
We focus this special section on the entire daunting but exhilarating process. You'll find purchasing information and case studies of four families who have met the challenge, as well as painting techniques, suggestions for creating instant art, storage tips, appliance shopping advice, and more. It's all here to help you unlock the door to your dream.
Buying your first home
1. Find the right agent
Many of the buyers we interviewed found their real estate agents by getting recommendations from friends. But if you don't know whom to consult for a referral, experts suggest the following strategies.
* INTERVIEW AT OPEN HOUSES. Steve Goddard, a longtime broker at RE/MAX Beach Cities Realty in Manhattan Beach, California, says going to open houses gives you a chance to informally interview agents. "You will be able to meet agents face-to-face and set up a meeting f you like them," Goddard says. His key advice: "Make sure they are good listeners. f they don't listen to you, they won't be able to determine what kind of house you want."
* SURF THE WEB. "Almost half of the first-time hcme buyers I get come to me after checking out my site on the Internet," Goddard says. The website for the National Association of Realtors (www.realton.org) can help you start the search.
* GO WITH SOMEONE YOU TRUST. Paul Calver, an associate broker with Seattle's Lake & Company Real Estate, says an agent's trustworthiness is as important as years of experience. "When you sit down with potential agents and ask questions, determine whether you feel comfortable with them," Calver says. "This is a person who is going to be privy to your financial information and helping you find the place you will live. If you can't trust them, it's going to be a long, hard process."
How to find the house that's right for you
The four cornerstones of a successful first-home quest are working with a trustworthy agent, securing your financing, setting realistic goals, and becoming very detail oriented. That last point is especially important, and so is plain old patience. As the photographs on these pages show, it all begins at the Sunday open house.
2. Secure financing
Once you locate a suitable agent, line up your financing. Your agent should be able to direct you to a lender who can preapprove a loan. "You want to know how much you can afford," Goddard says. "And once you start looking at houses, you will want a prequalification letter. That way, the seller's agent will know you are serious buyers and that you [probably] will be approved for a loan."
There are several steps to take when getting ready to apply for a loan.
* PAY OFF AS MUCH DEBT As POSSIBLE. When your loan application is being evaluated, your income is weighed against your debt. In general, less debt equals a larger loan.
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* GET RID OF SOME CREDIT CARDS. "A lot of people have credit cards open at department stores that they don't need," says real estate broker Alanna Kimmel of Kimmel & Company in Denver. "This can have a negative impact on your credit rating."
* GATHER PAY STUBS, BANK STATEMENTS, AND TAX FORMS. You will need documentation of income, savings, and work history.
* CREATE A CREDIT HISTORY. If you've never had a credit card, pull together items that show a history of consistent payment for rent or utilities.
3. Set realistic goals
The first hurdle first-time home buyers encounter is often in their own heads: unrealistic expectations. "They come in with a list of everything they want and communities where they want to live. Then they come up against money limitations," says Gail Lyons, a broker with Boulder Real Estate Services/Realty Executives in Colorado.
* MAKE LISTS. To help his new clients thin housing prospects, Calver advises them to make two lists: what they must have and what they'd like to have (but can live without). From these lists, he helps clients establish priorities. "At any given time, there are thousands of houses on the market," Calver says. "But when you look at amenities and location and compare that to how much you have to spend, that narrows the field considerably."
* DECIDE HOW MUCH REMODEL AND REPAIR WORK YOU ARE WILLING TO DO. "A lot of first-timers tell me they want a 'fixer' home because they think those will cost less," Goddard says. "But a lot of young working people don't have the time, experience, or money to take on a major renovation. What they mean is something that needs new paint or carpet."
* TAKE COMMUNITIES FOR A TEST-DRIVE. Richard Gaylord, a broker with RE/MAX Real Estate Specialists in Long Beach, California, advises his first-time clients to research communities on the Internet by looking up school and crime statistics (see page 163), but cautions that there's no substitute for firsthand experience. "I tell them to go to communities they are interested in and walk around and have dinner," he says. "Pick up a community paper and go to a few of the events they list and talk to people in the area."
Hot communities for the first-time home buyer
We asked real estate agents in the West to identify areas where
affordable homes and good quality of life still go hand in hand.
CITY STARTER PRICE
Cheyenne, WY $90,000
Mesa, AZ $95,000-$140,000
Albuquerque $l00,000-$150,000
Billings, MT $110,000-$125,000
Boise $110,000-$140,000
Beaverton, OR $150,000
Longmont, CO $150,000
Henderson, NV $150,000-$160,000
West Jordan, UT $160,000
Edmonds, WA low $200,000s
4. Sweat the details
Before Calver got into selling real estate, he worked in construction. When advising clients, he draws from this experience. He says buyers should carefully read the seller's disclosure packet and use it as a guideline for inspection. It is important that buyers evaluate potential homes with the eyes of an inspector.
* CHECK FOR A FIRM FOUNDATION. "The foundation might not be visible to the naked eye," Calver says. "Look at the doorways. Is the door square with the jamb?" If it isn't, there could be foundation problems--or it could simply be an older house showing its age. A sloping floor might also indicate trouble.
* LOOK AT ROOF AND CEILING. Wavy, cupped shingles can indicate a roof whose life is almost over. Calver also explains that a house with a roof that has missing shingles or a lot of moss growing on it can be a red flag and cause for a careful inspection. "If you look at the ceiling and see water stains, you know there's been a problem with leaking in the past," Calver says. "You want to make sure that's fixed."
* HIRE AN INSPECTOR BEFORE YOU BUY. "You want to go into a purchase with your eyes wide-open, knowing exactly what's going to have to be done to the house," says Calver.
Small is beautiful: An architect and a designer made a compact house airy and smart
When it came to buying a home, Kent and Pam Greene had high standards and a modest budget. As trained architects, the Greenes wanted a lightfilled, open home. But new jobs and a baby meant time and money were in somewhat short supply.
Another deficit: home-improvement skills. "Just because you are an architect doesn't mean you know how to do it yourself," Kent says. So the remodeling became a sort of postgraduate tutorial through trial and error. "I had to learn how to do everything, and it's made me better at my job."
The Greenes' hints
* Take your time looking. The Greenes had a budget of $130,000, and it took a year and a half to find the right house. "We were looking for something that would lend itself to modern design," Kent says.
* Be creative. After buying the house, the family had slightly more than $15,000 budgeted to spend on improvements. So they used clean, simple materials in creative ways. For example, the cabinets are plywood. And the Greenes made bathroom light fixtures from ordinary copper plumbing pipes and fittings.
Vital stats
* Open up and add storage. When the Greenes bought the house, it was divided into tiny rooms, The couple removed two windows, added more and larger windows, and took down interior walls to open up the house. By adding a kitchen island and more cabinets around the cooktop, they got more space for work and storage. In the living room, they created a built-in display case to showcase art and conceal stereo equipment.
Pam and Kent Greene Seattle
Ages: 35 and 32
Jobs: She has her own architectural design business, he's an architect.
Home: 900 square feet with two bedrooms.
Price: $130,000
Crash course
Purchasing a fixer-upper proved to be an educational experience
For Erin and Brian Ruff of West Linn, Oregon, nothing about buying or remodeling their first home was easy. Finding a suitable house in their price range was the first challenge. They figured that the fastest way to build equity was to find the worst house in the best neighborhood they could afford. So they started walking the streets in a few communities that they thought might work.
A tip from a stranger led to their purchase. A longtime resident pointed Out a house that he thought would be available. The couple bid on it at a foreclosure sale and won.
The Ruffs, who had never attempted any kind of home repair, found themselves with a huge remodel project on their hands. "We didn't have a lot of money or experience," Erin says. "But we had a lot of energy and willingness to learn." Being quick studies helped the couple transform a small, run-down house into a cheerful, colorful home.
The Ruffs' advice
* Become a sponge for remodel knowledge. On Friday nights and weekends, the couple would go on Home Depot dates": they would each get a cup of coffee and start walking the aisles of the Home Depot and Lowe's to find out what materials were available and compare their prices. The Ruffs made a list of goals and would corner an employee to help them tackle one project at a time.
* Pick the colors first. On one of their first home-improvement forays, Erin spotted purple and yellow laminate floor tiles. These became the basis for the couple's color palette. Once we picked the colors, It seemed easier to choose things for the house," Erin says.
* Enlist help. Erin and Brian agree that their remodel wouldn't have been possible without the help of their family and friends-parents on their days off and friends on weekends. The Ruffs plan to lend everyone a hand as repayment. One thing I learned that went a long way: Make sure there's money in your budget to give helpers a good meal--they really appreciate it" Erin says.
Vital stats
Erin and Brian Ruff West Linn, OR
Ages: 32 and 32
Jobs: She's a mediation specialist, he's a lawyer.
Home: 1,300 square feet with two bedrooms and an office.
Price: Around $160,000
Structurally sound
They could see good bones beneath dark, dingy surfaces
Dark paneling, dirty carpet, and an awkward floor plan did not deter Sharon Aris and Andrew Gurney from buying this house, because they could see beyond the surface flaws. They observed several positive attributes: a solid foundation, hardwood floors, and a reasonable price for the expensive San Francisco market.
Aris and Gurney had been house-hunting in the Bay Area for two years. When they saw the home in 2000, they had already lost out on bids for other houses. What they had won was an education. "It was important to us to have a house that was structurally sound," Aris says. "We figured we could improve the rest to our taste."
The Aris-Gurneys' hints
* Look for structural flaws. "When we saw this house, no one was going in the basement because the owners had a mean dog down there," Aris says. "We insisted the real estate agent hold back the dog while we looked at the foundation."
* Figure out what you can do yourself. The couple bought several home-improvement books and started studying. They saved money by doing their own demolition and drywall installation, then hired a contractor for the rest of the remodeling.
* Measure twice, buy once. The day they took possession of the house, Ails and Gurney went to the Home Depot and "went hog-wild and bought $1,000 worth of supplies," Aris remembers. "When we got home, we realized that everything was the wrong size. We had to take it all back."
Sketch out a floor plan for your remodel. The couple had trouble figuring out how many improvements would fit in their kitchen, so they hashed it out on a sandy beach. "We had a disagreement about whether we should put an island in the kitchen," Aris recalls. "We resolved it by drawing out the floor plan in the sand."
Vital stats
Sharon Aris and Andrew Gurney, San Francisco
Ages: 38 and 38
Jobs: She designs snowboard clothing, he's a database developer.
Home: 1,200 square feet with two bedrooms.
Price: $430,000
No time to remodel
The Bullocks opted for a brand-new developer house
Phoenix residents Julia and Joe Bullock started searching to buy their first home in long-established neighborhoods. They wanted space for a growing family and a room where Julia could practice yoga. "But then we realized that it would take a few years and a lot of money to redo an older house," Julia says. "We found that we could get a brand-new home with a mountain view and large rooms for the boys for the same price as a fixer-upper."
The Bullocks bought a new house in the South Mountain Village development built by KB Homes. The family is within 10 minutes of shopping, school, and work. "It was the right choice for us, because we just don't have time to remodel," Julia says. She owns Yoga Planet in Tempe, Joe has his own mortgage and real estate company, sons Jackson (8) and Malik (6) attend school, and Cameron (3) stays home with his mom.
The Bullocks' advice
* Look for a community that will develop quickly. "There are 12 other new-home communities in this area," Julia says. "You can see how this one will develop and have more stores in time. That's important for resale considerations."
* If you have children, choose a place where families flock. "I have great childhood memories of playing with kids in my neighborhood," Julia says. "I wanted the same kind of place for my kids. We chose a community where there were several large homes. We figured other people with kids would choose large homes."
* Think beyond the builder's floor plan. The plans designated one room as a library or an office, but Julia needed a place for yoga. A few simple tweaks made it the room she craved. "We asked them not to put in the shelves, cabinets, or carpets designated for the space," Julia says. "To make it a yoga room, we selected wood floors, mirrored closet doors, a peaceful wall color, and Asian-style blinds."
Vital stats
Julia and Joe Bullock Phoenix
Ages: 29 and 34
Kids: Three
Home: 3,100 square feet with five bedrooms.
Price: $264,00
Diary of a kitchen remodel
Planning, patience, and sweat equity pay off for Sunset's building writer
Peter O. Whiteley
Photographs by Thomas J. Story
Shortly after moving into our hillside 1,400-square-foot 1950s tract home, my wife, Beth, and I decided to remodel. The 12- by 13-foot kitchen was largely walled off from the adjacent dining room, which enjoyed a view of the San Francisco Bay. Our goals were to open the spaces to each other and to reorganize and upgrade the kitchen as a warm and elegant entertaining area. We wanted to do all of this without adding space.
The process of remodeling took about nine months, but we were physically without a kitchen for less than three. We took our time planning the remodel and choosing the materials, finishes, and appliances--sometimes changing our selections several times. After getting a construction estimate from a builder, we decided to save money by having me act as the general contractor. It might have been less work with a professional contractor or architect to oversee the project-we ended up having to locate and hire 17 different trades-people-but the extra effort paid off. We saved more than $30,000 and ended up with a kitchen that surpassed our dreams. This is our story of fine tuning and sweat equity.
A few finishing touches remain, but the end is in sight, and the savings and the journey have been worth it.
For product and appliance sourcing information, turn to page 207.
Remodeling time line
A monthly description of the decision-making process, from design through completion.
MARCH 2001
Bought house. Rude surprises awaited us in the kitchen: the counters were too shallow for a built-in dishwasher, and the oven fan vented only into the attic. Since a remodel seemed imminent, we removed some cabinets from the walls, took out the roll-around dishwasher and trash compactor to gain floor space, and tore off the black-yes, black- wallpaper.
APRIL-JULY 2001
Stared at the kitchen. Collected photographs of kitchens we liked; doodled out floor plans; gathered samples of backsplash tiles, counter materials, paint colors, flooring choices.
AUGUST 2001
Hired a kitchen planner. Developed a concept that gave us something concrete to digest. After a kitchen contractor gave us a rough estimate of $60,000 for the job, Beth and I decided that would act as the contractor.
SEPTEMBER 2001
Hired a carpenter. Although there was no finished plan, we knew a wider opening between the kitchen and dining room was needed. The carpenter removed the existing doorway and pass-through opening in this non-load-bearing wall and added a new 4-by-10 header and supporting posts. I filled in a doorway leading from kitchen to hall, then covered the studs with plaster wallboard. (We had decided the refrigerator would stand where this doorway once was.)
We now had a better sense of the new space and laid cut the conceptual plan at full scale on the floor with blue masking tape, using rough measurements for placement of appliances (see "The Right Appliance for You," page 162). Made trips to appliance stores to select a refrigerator, range, dishwasher, sink, and faucets. Took all of their precise measurements.
OCTOBER 2001
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Drew a new floor plan.
This was based on our revised ideas. Drew it at a scale of 1/2 inch to a foot (as well as an elevation of the back and side wall cabinets), then took the drawings to an experienced cabinetmaker, Philip Culbertson of Redwood City, California. Culbertson refined my drawings and made a set of plans for me to submit to the local building department. Beth and I agreed on vertical-grain fir for the cabinets and maple for the island base, which we planned to stain and paint.
NOVEMBER 2001
Ordered appliances. (Based on Culbertson's timetable, we needed them to arrive at the end of January.) Selected limestone as the countertop material for its appearance, even though we knew it could be stained by wine or other deeply colored fluids. For the island top, I ordered a 3by 5-foot chopping block of sustainably harvested Oregon madrone from a supply store in Portland. Continued searching for backsplash tiles, but couldn't decide on color, size, or material. Still undecided on the floor.
DECEMBER 2001
We submitted final plans to building department and they were approved.
JANUARY 2002
Destruction began. First, I covered and protected the floors in the dining area with thin foam and sheets of plywood, and then hired a laborer and an assistant. Tore out and carted away the old cabinets, plaster wallboard, and kitchen flooring, and then added a new subfloor. Also moved the old refrigerator to the garage, which became the site of our temporary kitchen.
Bought lots of paper plates and plastic cups and utensils. Cocked in a microwave and used a camp stove or our gas barbecue. Washed pots and pans in the utility sink as spiders watched, but soon we began to eat out frequently.
Hired electricians to rough wire the kitchen. Hired a plumber to relocate water, gas, and drain lines.
Had to decide on wall tiles because their thickness determines the type of metal covers used to extend electrical boxes for wall plugs in back-splash area. Ordered tumbled limestone tiles to match counter.
Replaced old double-hung windows with double-glazed casement windows, Installed new insulation, framed the angled wall behind the range, then hired someone to install the plaster wallboard and someone else to tape the wallboard seams. Blocked off the kitchen with plastic sheeting to reduce the migration of dust to other rooms.
Hired a contractor to install new floor. After considering cork and stone floor tiles, we decided to extend the hardwood of the dining area into the kitchen for continuity and a look that made the kitchen seem more like a living space. The contractor stained the new floor to match existing oak flooring.
Appliances, sink, faucet, and disposal arrived late January and filled the remaining space in the garage.
Worked with cabinet builder to decide on cabinet finish. Experimented with various finishes for the island. We decided to stain the island base red, add a coat of flat black paint, sand back the edges to reveal the red, then seal it with flat lacquer. Selected and ordered antique glass for four wall-cabinet doors. Ordered slabs of limestone to be delivered to local stone fabricator. Purchased doorknobs and drawer pulls from specialty hardware store.
FEBRUARY 2002
Installed farm-style trough sink and fir cabinets. Cabinetmaker hung doors, installed glass, and added pulls.
Electricians returned to add light switches, undercabinet fluorescent fixtures, ceiling fixtures, and wall receptacles for dishwasher and disposal. Stone fabricator arrived to make exact templates for counters, including holes for plumbing fixtures and circulation. Fabrication took a week.
Hired heavy-appliance moving specialists to bring range and refrigerator up from garage.
Plumber returned to install and hook up dishwasher, faucet, disposal, and drain line after counters were installed and sealed. He and I muscled the range into position, sliding it on flattened cardboard boxes, after he hooked up a flexible gas line.
I installed the range hood and vent lines during two days of crawling around in the attic. While there, I added blocking around the ceiling light fixtures to hold back insulation. Cracked the ceiling with overzealous hammering and had to patch that area later with plaster and paint.
MARCH 2002
Asked a local tile shop for recommendations on tile installers. I originally thought of installing the backsplash tiles myself but knew it was critical in such a public room to have a professional-looking job. The installer came to the house to see the project and give us a bid. He installed it all in one day and grouted it the next. Electricians returned to hook up backsplash outlets.
After much debate, we decided to paint the dining room and kitchen the same color--a dusty olive green--to enhance the rooms' relationship and open flow.
Filled the built-in wine rack beside the refrigerator with bottles, opened one, and toasted the kitchen's near completion.
How we could have saved more
Every choice of material represented a fork in the economic road, and in many cases we chose the more expensive path.
I estimate that we could have halved the expenses and still achieved the same floor plan by substituting these materials: vinyl flooring for hardwood; factory-made cabinets for custom ones; a drop-in sink for the trough sink; a standard dishwasher for the quiet, wood-paneled model with hidden controls; a smaller range for the six-burner gas model; an enamel-coated refrigerator for the wood-paneled one; laminate countertops for the limestone; and a maple butcher block instead of the madrone. But because we setved as our own contractor and did all of the legwork and much of the grunt work, these key upgrading decisions did not push us beyond our budget.
Rolling on style
Use three easy paint techniques to transform a room
By Julie Chai - Photographs by Thomas J. Story
One of the simplest and most inexpensive ways to add instant style to your home is with paint. Stylist Bill Samios's three artistic techniques shown here are all done with paint rollers and masking tape, plus other basic materials that you'd need for any interior paint project. "With a little extra time and effort, you can add an exciting visual element to a room," Samios says. "Anyone who can paint a room can do this."
Before starting your own project, fill and sand cracks and indentations to get a smooth work surface.
Minicubes
Additional materials
* two colors of paint
* two 9-inch rollers
* 1-inch-wide masking tape
1. Use a roller to paint the entire wall in the color you want the cubes to be; let dry.
2. Starting 1 inch from one end, wrap a roller with bands of tape so that every other inch on the roller is covered (you'll end up with four taped sections and five untaped).
3. Use the width of a level to make a vertical guideline at one end of the wall, and start painting vertical lines there in the second color. For each new set of lines, paint one line overlapping the previous one to maintain even spacing. Roll as far down as you can without touching the floor with the roller.
4. After vertical lines cover the wall, use the width of the level to sketch a horizontal guideline near the floor (you don't need to wait for vertical lines to dry completely). Paint the horizontal lines in the same fashion as the vertical ones, all the way up the wall.
5. When the horizontal lines are done, use the width of a level to trace a line near the floor and paint a faux baseboard in either color.
Basic supplies
For each technique, you will need
* 2-foot-long level
* pencil
* paint tray and liners
* drop cloth
* paintbrush
Technique tips
* These treatments work best on untextured walls.
* To maintain exact spacing when taping rollers, wrap one piece of tape loosely around the roller, then wrap the adjacent section as tightly as possible; repeat this process until you get to the end of the roller. Remove the loose tape before painting.
* When you moisten your roller in the tray, some paint will get on the taped sections; wipe off the excess with a brush.
* Have extra rollers and tape on hand in case paint saturates a roller and causes the tape to come loose.
* Use a brush to fill in any major gaps, and to make touch-ups.
* Be sure to recheck your stripes periodically with a level to make sure they're straight; sketch new guidelines if necessary.
Wainscoting
Additional materials
* three colors of paint (Samios used two shades of blue and a complementary ivory)
* three 9-inch rollers
* 1 1/2-inch-wide masking tape
1. Use one roller to paint the wall the lightest color; let dry.
2. When base coat is dry, use the width of the level to trace a line around doorways. Use a brush to paint this area the darkest color to create the illusion of a molding. Use the level to sketch a line where the top of your wainscoting will be. Any point near the middle of the wall is fine; the wainscoting in the photo below is 47 inches from the floor.
3. Starting 11/2 inches from one end, divide two rollers into alternating bands of taped and untaped sections of equal widths. Secure tape as tightly as possible.
4. Using a wrapped roller and the darkest color, paint vertical lines beginning at one doorway. To maintain proper spacing, let one saturated section of the roller overlap the molding band, and for each successive set of lines, paint one line overlapping the previous one. Continue to the other doorway or the end of the wall.
5. Using the third color and a wrapped roller, paint stripes between the darker ones. Its okay to have rough lines.
6. When finished with the stripes, use the width of the level to mark guidelines to paint a false baseboard and top molding. Fill using a brush and the darkest paint color.
Horizontal stripes
Additional materials
* two colors of paint
* two 9-inch rollers
* 3-inch-wide masking tape
* a ruler
1. Use a roller to paint the entire wall one color; let dry thoroughly.
2. Use masking tape to wrap the middle 3 inches of a roller as tightly as possible, leaving 3 inches of the roller exposed on either side, as shown in the photo above.
3. When the base coat is completely dry, use the level to draw a horizontal guideline 3 inches up from the floor along the length of the wall.
4. Using the wrapped roller and the second color, paint the first set of horizontal lines along the guideline. For each successive set of lines, overlap one end of the roller on the uppermost stripe in order to keep lines level. Continue to the top of the wall.
The right appliance for you
Smart shopping for cooktops, refrigerators, ovens, and dishwashers
By Mary Jo Bowling
Photograph by Muffy Kibbey
Enter an appliance showroom, and you'll find it's a jungle in there. The possibilities seem endless. Freezer on the top or bottom? Four burners or six? One oven or two? What's best for your budget? We asked Portland kitchen designer and National Kitchen & Bath Association board member Michael Slaby for tips on making smart shopping decisions.
Cooktops and ranges
Height: Cooktops are instated at counter level; a range is a cooktop combined with an oven and is 36 inches tall.
Width: 30 inches for four burners, 42 inches for eight burners
Depth: 24 inches
Gas: Favored because it both heats and cools quickly. The heat output of a gas unit is measured in BTUs; more BTUs equal more power. Cooktops with 15,000 BTUs or higher are considered professional or commercial grade.
A professional unit with more than four burners may be good for people who cook frequently or who often cook many things at once. More power requires a bigger ventilation system.
Electric: Many new electric cooktops have smooth, easy-to-clean glass or ceramic surfaces that can act as additional counter space when not in use for heating.
Electric ranges and cooktops are slower to heat and cool than gas ones. If you cook small, simple meals, they are a good choice.
Refrigerators
Height: 60-84 inches
Width: 30-42 inches
Depth: 24--34 inches
Freezer on top: These models work best for people who need less freezer space and want to scan all contents quickly. This configuration offers proportionally slightly less freezer space than others.
Freezer on the bottom: This arrangement allows refrigerated food to be at eye level and often offers more freezer space than freezer-on-top models.
Side-by-side: This configuration gives equal access to refrigerated and frozen goods. It doesn't allow platters to be stored easily so it's not the best choice for people who like to entertain. Typically, it offers more freezer space than either of the other choices.
Energy use: Of most household appliances, a refrigerator consumes the largest amount of energy because it is always running. Visit www.energystar.gov to find recommendations for energy-saving appliances.
Ovens
Height: Single wall oven, 36 inches; stacked double ovens, 50 inches
Width: 27-30 inches
Depth: 24 inches
Double ovens: If you need to cook several dishes at once, double wall ovens are for you.
Single oven: A single oven is less expensive and doesn't eat up as much cabinet space as a double.
Standard: The heat comes from the top and bottom of the oven, often resulting in uneven temperature within. They are usually less expensive than convection ovens.
Convection: Hot air circulates to cook food faster. Conversion times for recipes can be found in the appliance handbook.
Fuel options: Like ranges, ovens can be powered by gas or electricity. Electric ovens are more popular because they offer better temperature control; gas ovens are considered superior for broiling. Dual fuel (gas cooktop, electric oven) options are available in ranges.
Dishwashers
Height: 34 inches
Width: 24 inches
Depth: 24 inches
Plastic tub: The standard white tub dishwashers are usually least expensive.
Stainless steel tub: Higher-end models have a stainless steel tub that quickly heats to higher temperatures than plastic tubs do, for superior cleaning.
Rack depths: Interior dish racks vary in height and may be adjustable. Some allow more space on the bottom, a good option for someone who washes a lot of tall pots and pans.
Jets: Higher-end models have more--and more powerful--washing jets,
Drawers: Some models are separated into two drawers--good for people who entertain a lot and produce small waves of dirty dishes.
Noise factor: Dishwashers are usually the loudest appliance in a kitchen, Check the appliance handbook for a "db" (decibel rating): the lower the db, the quieter the dishwasher.
Internet help for home buyers
The most useful websites and key words
By Julie Chai
These online resources offer a wealth of free information for new and potential homeowners (some sites may ask for personal information).
For information on city demographics, local schools, climate, and salary calculators:
* CityRating.com, www.cityrating.com
Lists many Western cities.
* Sperling's BestPlaces, www.bestplaces.net
Recommends cities based on your criteria, with side-by-side city comparisons.
Key words: best neighborhoods, best places to live
For information on financing, financial glossaries, and calculators that determine how much you can afford:
* LendingTree, www.lendingtree.com
Lenders can make competing offers; you pick and choose. You need to enter personal information for advice.
* National Association of Realtors, www.realtor.com
Tools to help you find everything: a home, a lender, a mover.
* U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development, www.hud.gov
Under the "Homes" heading, click on "Buying."
Key words: home finance, home loans
For remodeling and maintenance advice:
* The Home Depot, www.homedepot.com
Click on "Project Index" for scores of projects that detail what materials you'll need, the skill level of the project, and how long it should take.
* Lowe's, www.lowes.com
Click on "How-To Library" for instructions on a wide range of projects.
* National Association of the Remodeling Industry, www.nari.org
Click on "Home Owners Guide" to view valuable tips on planning, financing, permits, contracts, and finding a contractor.
Key words: home remodeling, home maintenance, do it yourself
For paint and flooring tips:
Benjamin Moore Paints, www.benjaminmoore.com
How-to info and a virtual room for color experimentation.
* FloorFacts.com, www.floorfacts.com
Flooring materials, advice on how to choose, and links to manufacturers.
* Glidden, www.glidden.com
Design and project ideas, tips on choosing color, techniques.
Key words: the name of your favorite paint or flooring manufacturer
Instant wall art
Inexpensive ways to add color impact to a room
Jil Peters
Photographs by James Carrier
Color blocks
Give a room a modern feel with big blocks of color. Here, we spread fabric over canvases and added a frame made from edge molding (found at hardware stores). Fasten the fabric to the canvas with a staple gun. Use a handsaw and miter box to cut four pieces of L-shaped edge molding to fit around the canvas; secure the molding by hammering several brads through the back of it and into the wood frame holding the canvas.
Framed fabrics
Fabric swatches are ideal for framing in groups. Choose a color scheme to tie the fabrics together, keeping the majority of patterns subtle and mixing in one or two bolder designs. Don't be limited by what you find at the fabric store--consider old scarves, shirts, or shirts with rips or marks. Tape the fabric to the back of a mat so that it is smooth over the opening in the mat, then insert it into the frame.
Card art
Greeting cards, calendars, handmade paper, or postcards with graphic designs can make wonderful--and affordable--framed images. These note cards depicting the quilts of Denyse Schmidt sell for $14 for 20 (available from Chronicle Books, www.chroniclebooks.com or 800/722-6657). Mat and frame them to give them scale and presence--match the color of the mat to a color in the image, or choose a complementary color.
A better bedroom closet
Tips for packing more storage into this small space
Mary Jo Bowling
Mary Jo Bowling
Illustration by Nik Schulz
Closets should be places to find things, not lose them. Trouble is, the typical bedroom closet--commonly 8 feet wide, 2 feet deep, and 8 feet high-contains a pole and a high shelf and doesn't work hard enough. We asked professional organizers for advice on revamping this essential space.
The first step is the most difficult. Take an inventory of your clothes and decide what you can live without. Do this before you move--or when you're in the mood for spring cleaning. Make room only for the necessities.
The right design
1. Increase access and light. If the closet has sliding doors, at least half of your wardrobe will always be hidden from view. Consider replacing the doors with hinged ones or a sliding curtain so you can see what you own. If your closets contents are cloaked in darkness, think about adding a light source.
2. Add another pole below the existing one. Most of us don't need a lot of room for storing extra-long items like dresses and coats. Shirts, skirts, and pants take up less vertical space, which means you can increase your closet's capacity for storing shorter clothes by placing another pole below the original one. You can gain up to twice the hanging capacity while still allowing the items from the higher pole to drape unencumbered.
Choose a pole that's smooth enough for sliding hangers easily. If you need dedicated hanging space for extra-long items, separate your closet into two or more sections by installing closet dividers, which bolt between shelf and floor (available at hardware, home improvement, and organizing stores).
3. Add dividers to the shelf above the closet pole. Small partitions keep piles of folded items neat and straight. Dividers are easy to install--they just clip onto the shelf.
4. Store occasional-use items on the shelf with the fold forward. That way, you can see lust how many sweaters or folded blankets are in a stack.
5. Add drawers or hanging baskets for other folded items. Store gym clothes and T-shirts below hanging clothes in boxes or baskets.
6. Store shoes in clear containers on the floor. Boxing shoes and stacking them will prevent shoes from getting dusty or jumbled and allow you to see what you have.
7. Use hangers that are appropriate for what you're hanging. Select wood hangers for heavier items like coats and jackets; use plastic ones for lighter items like blouses and shirts. Avoid wire hangers--they tend to catch on each other and clump. For skirts, use clip hangers. For pants, choose an open-ended hanger designed to hold folded trousers.
8. Hang accessories on curtain rods or hooks attached to the back of the closet door. This setup makes belts, scarves, and ties easy to grab.
RESOURCES: A Place for Everything (www.sallyallenorganizer.com or 303/526-5357). Cowan & Company Professional Organizing (858/451-2344).
View point Plant stands turn a bland outlook into a visual treat.
Jil Peters
When Allison Wright and Andy Kaplan purchased their Santa Monica home, the windows all along the side of their house faced a barren alley. With only 4 feet between the home and a fence, screening options were limited.
The solution was to elevate potted star jasmine on steel racks and place them against bamboo screens. The graceful yet hardy plant grows m sun or shade and has small, white, fragrant flowers in spring and summer.
The screens, made with larger-than normal cane, are woven together with copper and backed with exterior-grade plywood. The panels extend beyond the height and width of the windows.
DESIGN: Griffith and Gletta, Venice, CA (310/399-4727).
COPYRIGHT 2003 Sunset Publishing Corp.
COPYRIGHT 2003 Gale Group
Posted by jonathan on February 01, 2005 at 10:08 PM